RUTH LA FERLA
Designers sent conflicting signals on their fall runways this week, offering a thoughtful, and sometimes unpredictable, mashup of textures and patterns, as often as not in the very same outfit. Herringbone tweeds kept company with chevron stripes; bird’s-eye weaves with elephantine plaids; pompoms with flannels and nomadic motifs.
Yet all of it somehow coalesced. Marcus Wainwright and David Neville of Rag & Bone artfully combined blanket designs with floral tapestries; arrow prints with polka dots and perforated knits. At Y-3, pebble-textured bi-color fleece mingled with a leopard print and madly striped leggings, shown aptly enough against a magic-carpet backdrop.
A similar feeling for full-on exoticism prompted Joseph Altuzarra to combine tribal patterns, bits of fur and bands of multicolored ribbon in his gypsy-inflected show, while Thakoon Panichgul offered a series of dresses overlaid with woven cane, lending a rich dimension to his flamelike prints.
Others mated popcorn knits with lacquered tweeds, zany stripes with gilded embroideries. It was a crazy mélange animating some of the week’s most spirited collections, in which the message was the mix.